Rosyth Quarry

Crag Description

Rosyth Quarry is situated just outside the town of Rosyth. It is accessible by foot, by bicycle and by car. There is no actual road into the quarry but there are numerous paths/tracks leading up to the rock from the roadside.

The quarry itself is quite ugly because the local vandals have defaced the rock with Graffiti. This graffiti is messy but is used to identify routes in the SMC Lowland Outcrops Guide. The quarry can sometimes be full of noisy, annoying local children who appear to enjoy throwing things and breaking glass. Generally they keep well away from the climbers (especially the ones who have a Number 10 Hex with them... )

The quarry has a generally friendly atmosphere, being sheltered and west facing it is quite popular on spring and summer evenings. It can sometimes get quite busy mid-week because it is so accessible.
There is a large area of grass in front of the main climbing area. The LANDING AREA is a pile of jaggy boulders, though! TAKE YOUR HELMET IF YOU INTEND TO FALL OFF!

The rock is dolerite (the same as Ratho Quarry. In general it's in quite good condition although there is some loose rock in the middle section of the main climbing area.
The best routes are on sound, clean rock!
Some of the easier climbs at the left-hand side of the main area can become very dusty if the weather has been dry.

This crag dries quickly.

The Climbing

The climbing here is excellent for the most part. There is a wide range of grades, suitable for learning to lead or for the competent VS leader to push higher.
Most of the routes are on the back wall (to the left as you enter the quarry) and some have 'names' (graffiti) painted on the bottom making them easier to identify. (Not all of these are routes.) All the routes are between 6 and 18 metres in length on (usually) very good rock.

Recommended Routes

HEATHY (VS 4c***): If you look around the main face you will see a lovely clean corner above a block/platform about 4m up. The platform has the word 'HEATHY' painted on it at the bottom!
This climb is the classic of the quarry!

From the bottom of the platform, climb to the platform using the corner crack. Continue up from the platform an into (?) the finger crack above (crux). Continue up to the top enjoying the moves/situation.
There is a belay stake placed about 10m back from the edge.
GRENVILLE (VS 4b): 3m to the left of Heathy is a 'groove' moving up to a corner near the top. The rock at the bottom is loose and there is little reliable gear for the first 6m of the route.
Continue upwards and take the corner directly (interesting move!) before making it to the top. If you don't fancy the move at the top you can easily traverse left (but don't try to claim a VS lead!).
ICONOCLAST (HVS 5a): A further 3m to the left (behind the remains of a burnt out car!) is Iconoclast... This climb goes straight up from here using a 'sort of layback flake thing' at the bottom, moving up to a small niche. Getting into and past the niche is the crux of this route! Finish easily above.
Probably better to use construct a rock belay at the top.
THE WALLY (HVS 5b**): One of the best climbs here! Although quite short this route is technical, strenuous and every move from bottom to top is interesting.

There is a blank(ish) section in the left-middle of the main wall (climbed at E2 6a on finger pockets, so it says). At the right-hand side of this there is a lovely (layback if you like) crack which moves up to form a 'T'... Climb the crack and move right before moving to the top!
Make sure your gear is good!

For those who prefer their rock all crumbly, there are some new-routeing opportunities further round to the right...

Further right still (behind all the trees) are more routes. This areas is generally less pleasant because it gets less sun and more midges! There appear to be some worthwhile routes though and the gear appears to be good, too.
The documented routes go all the way round the quarry covering grades from VS to E6... why not have a go at something? If you like it, let us know.

Bouldering

Bouldering isn't very popular here. There isn't really a suitable area other than on the harder (E2-E6) routes/walls. Most of this is in the trees/midges and can't be very pleasant.

Getting there...

From Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy and the North: If you are driving take the Motorway to Edinburgh, and come off at the exit for Rosyth. This is the second exit before the Forth Road Bridge, heading South.
The quarry should be just visible on your left, as it is at the bottom of the slip road. Find a spot to park and then walk to the quarry.
From Edinburgh, Glasgow and everywhere else: Make your way to the South side of the Forth Road Bridge, cross it, (currently 80p for cars travelling north) and then take the second exit where the quarry will be on your right.
Cyclists would be advised to take the first exit after the bridge and then cycle to Rosyth town. Turn right at the crossroads/mini roundabout, then it's straight on under the M/way and the quarry is on the right. Just push your bike up the embankment.

Access

There are no access issues in this quarry.

Local Amenities

Because of the proximity of the quarry to the town there are lots of amenities. The town is within walking distance and you can see it from the road. All the usual things (fuel) including a nice bakery.
Parking is available at the industrial estate. It's only 5 minutes walk from the climbing. At the roundabout under the motorway turn right (Dalgety Bay?)(past the quarry) and continue along the road for about 300m. Turn left into the estate. Most people park here.